PDA

View Full Version : What paint should I use???



jaxx
01-31-2006, 02:33 AM
OK... a couple of quick questions to those of you out there who have customized before.
What kind of paint should I use when painting Star Wars figs... namely Clones?
I've heard that acrylic paints are good, but I've also heard of "enamel acrylics." What are "enamel acrylics?" What are some brands? Where can I find them? How much are they? Are they really that much better than plain acrylics?
Thanks for your help!:thumbsup:

figrin bran
01-31-2006, 03:00 AM
for the few customs i've done (i only started last summer), i've used only the regular acrylic paints. you can find them at any hobby/crafts store like Michael's or even at Walmart. some of the better known brands are Apple Barrel, Delta Ceramcoat, Folkart and they'll run you about $1 per bottle or even less.

Lazer Brain
01-31-2006, 01:34 PM
please test your paint first!!! and different plastics have different effects. i have had no problems with strait acrylic paints...yet. but i bought some emamel once to paint a starfighter, it worked ok. then i used the same paint for the droid... well it worked on the body ,but not the legs, i am still waiting for it to dry.it also deformed the softer plastic a little, i applied a clear coat that helped.spray paints work for large areas too.i will check my brands and post .
later

jaxx
01-31-2006, 02:44 PM
Thanks! I'll try out the acrylics.

DarkArtist
01-31-2006, 09:03 PM
I use Tester's model paint. it great for the figures works well except for cloaks and capes and comes it great colors such as gunmetal, rust, copper, silver and smoke.

JEDIpartner
02-03-2006, 02:16 PM
Do the acrylic paints actually adhere to the plastic or do they have the potential of scraping off if your fingernail touches it?

Phantom-like Menace
02-04-2006, 12:17 AM
After much effort spent on being stubborn, I tried regular acrylics and never looked back. I've never tried enamel acrylics, but I see no reason to fix what works.

I use Testors Modelmaster purchased at Hobbytown, but I've also used the regular Testors products that can be easily purchased at Wal-Mart.

The Testors acrylics seem pretty durable on their own, but I go ahead and cover it with enamel dullcoat (I assume glosscoat works as well) which makes it hard to scratch off without really trying.

mabudonicus
02-05-2006, 10:42 AM
I believe that Testors is enamel, actually, unless they went ahead and re-did their whole product line...
As JP points out, acrylic paint will just sit on the surface, so unless you want a "non-playable" fig you'd have to do some tricks...

As stated, enamel paints will have a reaction with lots of plastics- in many cases this just means that the paint will stick/bond with the surface it is applied to, but in other cases, such as the rubbery droid legs nemtioned above, it will mix in totally unpredictable ways (melting the parts, NEVER drying, making new and unexpected smells)

Priming the surface will likely help, but can be a hassle on the joints/contact surfaces as it can scrape off unevenly...

I was looking at the AOTC red clone the other day and thinking about doing some custom paint on him, and came up with a good (albeit pretty labour-intensive) idea... Seeing as all of the actual joints are black and pretty much would remain so on any customs, the BEST way to do work on such a fig would be to mask off all the black joints, then hit the whole thing with some nice primer and go from there (using enamels OR acrylics since the primer seals off the base material, and then sealing the whole mess with some sort of "cote" when finished)
IF you are just doing simple "markings" mods, like making a ROTS #6 into a shocktrooper, just use enamels and paint it directly onto the fig OR you could use markers, art supply shops usually sell lots of colours and lots of sizes of permanent markers and you could easily add different decos nice and accurately without too much mess ...
Just my two cents :beard:

Ji'dai
02-06-2006, 12:19 PM
What kind of paint do you guys suggest for die-cast figurines? I was thinking of touching up my old Kenner Micro-Collection die-cast figures. Some of them have chipped paint jobs since I just lumped them all together in storage.

mabudonicus
02-07-2006, 07:26 AM
DEFINITELY enamel, like Testors, and make sure to clean the figs off real good before you do so, like detergent and warm water then let 'em dry off real good to make sure amy beads of water are gone (testors paint will go really gummy if it hits water)
After they're touched up, coat them really well, and try to keep them from getting "clinked around" after that, you'll never have to repair them again :beard:

Lazer Brain
02-07-2006, 11:58 AM
is there a cure all for clouded clear plastic?? i have not tried much, but nothing seams to work, any ideas?
thanks

Ji'dai
02-07-2006, 04:40 PM
DEFINITELY enamel, like Testors, and make sure to clean the figs off real good before you do so, like detergent and warm water then let 'em dry off real good to make sure amy beads of water are gone (testors paint will go really gummy if it hits water)
After they're touched up, coat them really well, and try to keep them from getting "clinked around" after that, you'll never have to repair them again :beard: Thanks! I'll check Wal-Mart's model paint selection next time I'm there. I should have been more careful but I just lumped them into a small metal tin and they got banged around a lot.

I've been looking on the net for a list or chart of the original enamels that Kenner actually used for the figurines so I could more accurately match them.

mabudonicus
02-08-2006, 08:52 AM
Lazer Brain- depends- there's no "cure all" but there's a couple things that might work- if it's hard styrene, you might try some jewelers sandpapaer (usually they use iron oxide or something so it's superfine, 1200 grit plus) and sand the piece til it's smooth, OR if you want to experiment, get some of that liquid cement (usually MEK-based, or if you have MEK just use that) and brush it on til the piece is clean, then avoid touching it at ALL as it dries... I would suggets that if you're going to try this, try it on something that is not important first, as it is not infallible and getting a feel for the materials and how they react is a good idea- not saying it'll fix everything, but it can work if done right

The ultra-fine sandpaper is much less "dangerous" but may not produce the results you want, hope this helps

Ji'Dai- if you can, get the FS (federal standard) numbers from the original stuff, I know testors model master lists the FS number on a lot of its paints so it'll make the matching easier
:beard:

Lazer Brain
02-08-2006, 05:55 PM
MEK!!! well i guess i not planning on having any more kids, so i could give it a try. i used to work near that stuff, not anymore, but its dangerous stuff.do not sniff or touch it! it will polish your brain cells.
later