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  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Jax View Post
    when halogens were at the height of their popularity, most 'lamps' included a filter to block restrict the wavelengths of light emitted (or at least the ones i saw had them)
    Filters have a responses function, they don't just sharply cut off 4200 (violet). If a light source puts out blue or violet light you're likely to have a little UV leakage.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lord Malakite View Post
    An oxidizing agent works by breaking the chemical bonds of a chromophore, or the part of a molecule that has color. This changes the molecule so that it either becomes colorless or else reflects a color outside the human "visible" spectrum of color.
    Ok I knew that, but why is oxygen bleach "color safe" chlorine bleach not? Both are oxidizing agents and both work be altering the bonds in the chromophore molecule, right?
    "I'm sick and tried of these motherfrakkking Sith on this motherfrakkker plane!"
    Mace Windu - Episode 2.5: Sith on a Plane

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by LusiferSam View Post
    Ok I knew that, but why is oxygen bleach "color safe" chlorine bleach not? Both are oxidizing agents and both work be altering the bonds in the chromophore molecule, right?
    Both chlorine and oxygen bleaches are similar. Both are oxidizing agents and work in a similar method, they break down the double bonds of carbon which are usually responsible for "color". It just comes down to the strength of the oxidizing agent in the bleach. The whole "color safe" thing is just a trade-off of using a weaker oxidizing agents.

    Chlorine bleaches don't usually contain chlorine directly. Rather they usually contain sodium hypochlorite which is one of the products created when sodium hydroxide (in solution) reacts with chlorine. Sodium chloride, or common "table salt", is also created. Sodium hypochlorite is considered a strong oxidizing agent.

    Oxygen bleaches on the other hand contain slightly weaker oxidizing agents, like hydrogen peroxide for example. Being weaker they can oxidize the chromophores in typical stains as they are usually weak themselves, but they aren't usually strong enough to break down the chromophores of commercial dies used to color fabric as those bonds are much stronger.
    Rogue Squadron-19 Golds, Battle For Naboo-18 Platinums, Rogue Leader-15 Golds/15 Aces, Rebel Strike-19 Single Golds/19 Single Aces
    James Boba Fettfield & Lord Malakite's Video Game Collection

  3. #13
    In addition to Star Wars, I collect another toy line, the Micronauts. They were pretty popular in the 70's and many of the vehicles were molded in white plastic. Over time, some of them yellowed. But I managed to turn them white again with some Retro Bright.

    http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/

    I used Tezza's alternate recipie:

    1/2 pint (200 ml) Hydrogen Peroxide, 6% strength
    2 heaped tablespoonfuls of "White Crest" Arrowroot
    1/5 teaspoonful of "Oxi-Magic" laundry booster


    I used over the counter Hydrogen Peroxide, 3 % I think. I WOULDN'T use the full strenght peroxide, I think that it might have adverse effects on your stuff.

    I used Oxy Clean powder and Arrowroot powder. The arrowroot makes it into a gel which you can spread onto your figures or whatever. Be careful with it, it turns everything white! You may want to experiment with this stuff on something you don't care about first but it worked for me.

  4. #14
    This sounds promising. When I get the chance, I'll try this on my yellowing Jetfire.

  5. #15
    That's how I thought chlorine and oxygen bleaches worked. I mostly remember the chemistry for chlorine bleach, but really didn't know the oxygen bleach chemistry (which when I worked out a basic level didn't seem right). I knew it had to be a trade off in terms of oxidizer strength and strength of stain's bonds.

    The retrobright site is the one I found this past summer, but then lost. It's because of this site I thought trying it on Lego bricks would be a good idea (ABS plastic). I didn't really get a chance this summer to really read the page. But after spending some time there, I'm very impressed. I think there is some good science behind what they are talking about. I completely missed the part on using TAED (tetra acetyl ethylene diamine) as a catalyst. I'm looking forward to try this with some other Lego bricks. There's some gray and blue bricks I really want to test now. Maybe next weekend, as I'm out of town right now. A black light might a really good idea. A little more control and I can run it in the evening or over night.
    "I'm sick and tried of these motherfrakkking Sith on this motherfrakkker plane!"
    Mace Windu - Episode 2.5: Sith on a Plane

  6. #16
    Good luck to everyone. It worked well for me. I had a Micronaut battle cruiser with some white parts, some yellow, and some that were somewhere inbetween. After tratment they all look uniformly white.

    The arrowroot makes a gel that can be spread evenly over the parts. Its seems to get rubbery pretty fast so don't wait too long before applying. The powder oxy clean didn't like to mix to well as I recall, it was sort of gritty.

    I soaked some parts in a solution of hydrogen peroxide and oxy clean. This did bring out the brightness a bit more but if you leave it in too long it crystalizes. I was able to chip it off but just thought I'd let everyone know in case they attempt the same thing.

  7. #17
    I have successfully whitened all of my vintage Star Wars figures using a product called "Salon Select 30 Volume Clear" which I purchased from Sally Beauty for $3.50. It's basically 30% Hydrogen Peroxide used for hair bleaching. It's potent stuff so wear rubber gloves because if you get it on your fingers it will cause the skin to bleach. I basically poured this into a clear plastic container and set the figures inside. I left it out in the sun for 3 days. After the 3rd day I was pleased with the results. My figures were 100% de-yellowed and looked practically good as new again!

    Obviously this won't help to de-yellow carded bubbles but there may be another option. I had one figure that had some marker stains on it that couldn't be removed with rubbing alcohol so I bought some Acne cream with 10% benzoil peroxide. You can buy a cheap generic version of it at your local supermarket. By applying this to the figure and leaving it in sunlight it completely removed the sharpie stains. Now I wouldn't recommend leaving a carded figure exposed to sunlight as it can completely fade the card itself but you could try covering the card with towels leaving just the bubble exposed to sunlight (or just an indoor U/V lamp) and try rubbing the white Oxy cream onto just the outside of the bubble. It will dry out and harden after a few hours exposed to the open air. Gently wipe or scrape it off as it will simply flake off like powder and then re-apply another coat. Slowly it should reverse the yellowing. Keep doing it until you are satisfied that the yellowing is completely gone. I may pick up any old cheap carded vintage figure with a yellowed bubble and attempt this myself.

  8. #18
    Senator Bel-Cam Jos's Avatar
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    Interesting techniques there, thanks. Don't know if I have any yellowed bubbles (I haven't looked in several years) to try it out on, though.
    I predict that the upcoming Star Wars Episode VIII: The Last Jedi film will include the word "and." Multiple times.

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